These are the heights Napa Valley Cabernet can reach. “Estate” Cabernet between St Helena and Calistoga. (Worth paying a visit, by the way). Get fruit flavors of black currants, boysenberries and blueberries. The Larkmead sets itself apart, as it usually does, with vineyard-driven sensations of roast fennel and rosemary, musk, black olive, oiled leather and mint leaf. Acid is just right – supports the wine as it stands behind the curtain. Super-fine tannins make the framework. If you’re going to buck up $120 for a bottle of Napa Cab, this is a very good choice.

Insider knowledge (not so insider anymore): winemaker Dan Petroski goes ape-s*** over this wine. “It’s the the wine I want to drink the most in this vintage because it over-performs!” he’s been known to say…

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