A delicious, and to me just about perfect, showing of the Albarino grape. Lemons three ways on the nose and in the taste: lemon blossoms, lemon zest, lemon oil. Playing back up, get yellow grapefruit, Macintosh apple slices and honeysuckle. Bright acidity and a satin texture (from aging on its lees for a few months – no oak). An ideal fish wine, especially fried fish dishes (or fried chicken, for that matter).

Simply called “Granbazan” in most cases, this house is one of the stalwarts of Rias Baixas (very cool wine region on Spain’s Atlantic Coast north of Portugal). I have always liked their wines, especially this, their “Etiqueta Ambar” bottling. From my vantage point, Granbazan does not get the credit they deserve for quality, value and consistency.

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