Fruit-driven nose of plum jam, violets and dried ginger. Taste ripe and dark raspberries, black licorice, wild thyme and dry-aged beefsteak. Smooth, friendly texture sort of like a silky California Pinot Noir. If I were describing this wine to someone in a wine shop, I’d say, “it’s 40% geek-wine and 60% crowd-pleaser.” The Counoise comes from a tiny plot in Ukiah, Mendocino County. The City of 10,000 Budhas, a Buddhist Temple & Colony, is next door.

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Owners Ben Brenner and Matt Nagy are doing a great job building Benevolent Neglect slowly but surely into one of the next New California Wine go-to labels. Matt, who’s in charge of winemaking, works at Matthiasson Winery, so the two have a path to reach their goals with their label. These are delicious, unique wines with soul. Rarely do I state that “everything they make is good,” but at BN, well, “EVERYTHING IS GOOD.” Fairly priced too.

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