Here’s an original. Sauvignon Blanc (from near Hopland, southeast Mendocino County) made into a lightly sparkling wine. Method Ancestrale means the wine, not a dosage, makes the bubbles. In this case it is a second fermenation. Subject to Change uses Sauvignon Blanc must that was frozen at harvest, then thawed and added to wine in bottle.

Very yellow-grapefruity, also generous on the green heirloom apple and lime. Kaffir lime and Meyer lemon gives the wine a little exotic-ness. Lightly sparkling, not nearly as much as Champagne. Exceptional intensity of citrus fruits, acidity and herbal character typical of Sauvignon Blanc. Probably not quite for everybody, but there’s a straightforward deliciousness here that most wine lovers will wrap their arms around.

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