100% Chenin Blanc. Crisp and brooding nose of bright citrus, pears, white spring flowers and chalk. Taste is 2 parts soil, 1 part fruit: river rocks, oyster shells, lemon-apple, quince. The concern is that this will be dry to the point of being mean, but not so. The lees-aging in barrel gives just the right amount of flesh. Really delicious, and a bargain for this quality and character.

A Pet-Nat, which is single fermentation that finishes in bottle. 100% Chenin Blanc, called Triple Zero because it is Zero Chaptalization, Zero Liqueur at bottling, Zero dosage. Ferment and aged 2 years on its lees in neutral barrel before bottling to finish fermentation.

Taille Aux Loups is the property of Mountlouis producer Jacky Blot (and son Jean-Philippe. Jacky bought old vineyards in Montlouis, mid Loire Valley, in the 1980s. Their wines are outstanding, and personally speaking, some of my favorite wines to drink in the world.

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